2004 Vintage Report United States

Another harvest is over, and the wines are resting in winery cellars. While it's too early to thoroughly assess quality, this is a review by Wine Spectator's editors.  United States

REGION: California/Napa Valley
GRADE: A-
Short and sweet summarizes the 2004 vintage in both Napa and Sonoma counties--the harvest was early, the crop was small and the grapes ripened well. Winemakers were optimistic about quality, saying that most of the major grape varieties came in without a hitch. About the only complaint vintners had was that the crop size was 20 percent to 50 percent below normal, according to many reports. In Napa Valley, vintners said the young reds were intense, deep colored and very concentrated; they were also alcoholic. A hot spell at harvest proved tricky, said Craig Williams of Joseph Phelps Vineyards. "September was incredibly warm and dry," he said; many vineyards had varying degrees of "shriveling or concentration," which held crop loads at Phelps to two tons per acre for most varieties. Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc look great, Williams said, and the 2004 reds, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, remind him of 2002. "They're very compelling, very seamless, with great color," making them a notch better than 2003, he said. --James Laube

REGION: California/Sonoma County
GRADE: B+
Sonoma mirrored Napa with the crop size and the early harvest, but vintners reported somewhat milder temperatures, which generally encouraged earlier, gradual maturation. Winemakers said crush was all but wrapped up by the first week in October--two to three weeks ahead of normal. An early, short harvest with low yields generally means the wines will be concentrated and intense, yet balanced, winemakers said. However, it can also mean that tannins can be an issue. "There seem to be a lot of big tannins in red wines across the board this year," Chateau Souverain winemaker Ed Killian said. Cabernet was spotty, with some excellent wines and some not so good, Killian said, but most other varieties fared well. "Overall, I think it will be an extremely good Chardonnay year. The Merlots are as good as they've ever been, certainly in Alexander Valley," he said, adding that Zinfandels were on par with the Merlots. "I think Sauvignon Blanc is distinctly better than in 2003, which was kind of a flop. 2004 looks like there's a lot of flavorful Sauvignon Blancs." --Tim Fish

REGION: California/Central Coast
GRADE: B+
This region, which stretches from Monterey to Santa Barbara, also had an early, hot and short harvest. Starting in August and the beginning of September, a torrid heat spell, which in some areas lasted five days, sent temperatures higher than 100 degrees F. With its thin skin and tendency to ripen early, Pinot Noir was the most likely to suffer. Many vintners in Santa Barbara, the Santa Rita Hills and the Santa Lucia Highlands raced to pick before berries raisined and sugars soared. The better Pinots--those unmarked by over-ripeness--will be concentrated, with substantial alcohol. Yields were high, about three tons an acre, nearly double the recent average at many estates. Chardonnay and Syrah are hardier varieties, so they fared better in the heat. Chardonnay yields were low to average, and vintners reported clean fermentations after picking healthy grapes with good flavors. Syrah crops in Paso Robles were tiny, with small berries and clusters. Grapes that lasted through the heat spell produced intense, concentrated wines, with bright flavors and lively acidity that encourage optimism. --Daniel Sogg

REGION: Oregon
GRADE: B+
It was a year of extremes for Oregon growers. Late winter and early spring were exceptionally cool and dry, which kept the crop size down, then heat waves arrived in July and August. In Willamette Valley, grape sugar levels were peaking in late summer and harvest looked imminent, but then it was postponed by cool, wet weather that arrived in late August and again in mid-September. About three inches of rain fell overall, although southern Oregon received less. Harvest proceeded in fits and starts, and winemakers report that grapes weathered the storms remarkably well. "It turned out to be a godsend because we were able to delay harvest to get better acids and fruit flavors," said Argyle winemaker Rollin Soles, who describes the 2004 wines as crisp and pretty in a classic Oregon style. Yields are down 10 percent to 60 percent in Willamette Valley, where the Pinot Noirs show bright black raspberry fruit and Chardonnays offer pear and mineral qualities. --Tim Fish

REGION: Washington
GRADE: B
"It was really a wild year," said Doug Gore, who oversees winemaking for Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. The year began with bitterly cold temperatures in January, which reduced the crop size by 10 percent or more. Particularly hard hit was the Walla Walla region, where some growers were left with little or no crop. The summer was hot and arid, and by mid-August, many winemakers were concerned that flavors were not keeping up with the soaring sugar levels. Just as harvest was getting underway, cool temperatures and a modest amount of rain arrived, slowing crush for about two weeks and giving the grapes more hang time. Because of the uneven growing season, it's difficult to make an early assessment of quality. Flavors could be compromised. But winemakers report that Syrahs and Merlots are generally well-balanced and have dark colors, while the Chardonnays show good acid and flavors. "The Rieslings," Gore said, "are dynamos." --Tim Fish